For the Birds

No birds, no bird dog—it really is as simple as that. Attempting to develop a bragging-rights gundog without training with birds is akin to trying to become a competitive sporting clays shooter without using shotgun shells; it simply will not happen.
It is a far cry from a puppy pointing a wing on a stick or a Labrador retriever chasing a tennis ball to developing a bird-finder who exhibits proper bird manners in the world of real hunting. Training a four-legged hunting partner that will put feathers in the game bag requires the use of training birds—good, healthy, strong-flying birds.
    Important as birds are, however, many owners simply can’t justify a bird-rearing operation in their backyard. The result is that training with birds often brings dog owners together, as obtaining, keeping and handling birds are tasks well suited to a group. Local breed clubs, trial and test organizations, and hunting preserves also offer good options for accessing birds and training assistance.
    Still, having the basics covered for housing birds, even temporarily, can offer great convenience for training. Before developing a steady source of birds, trainers first need to prepare with the sundry measures of proper housing, feeding, medication and transportation. The birds most commonly used for training upland dogs are quail, chukar, pheasants and pigeons, so I’ll focus on issues affecting these species. Although there are variations in what’s needed to ensure healthy birds across various species, many of the rules apply to all birds.
    Geoff Gabe (pronounced “Gay-be”), owner of Addieville East Farm, in Mapleville, Rhode Island, is an expert when it comes to raising and maintaining quality birds. Gabe operates a premier shooting preserve and raises thousands of birds each year. In addition to supplying the hunting program at Addieville, Gabe supplies many hunting clubs and dog trainers with pheasants. I recently spoke with Gabe and asked him to share his knowledge on keeping birds healthy.
    Gabe strongly believes that giving birds ample space in their housing is the top priority. Birds that are overcrowded are much more susceptible to disease. In addition birds generate a lot of heat and are wrapped in feathers, preventing them from dissipating that heat well. Overcrowding exacerbates overheating and can lead to fatal consequences. Birds are prone to the many side effects of stress caused by too high a population density. The bacterial infection ulcerative enteritis is one example of a pernicious disease associated with the stress of higher population densities.
    Ulcerative enteritis is an infection in the small intestine to which all gallinaceous species—including pheasants, chukar, pigeons and quail—are at risk. Quail are perhaps the most susceptible, and ulcerative enteritis is often referred to as “quail disease.” Once a bird is infected, its ability to absorb nutrients is reduced, resulting in extreme weight loss and muscle deterioration. Ulcerative enteritis is highly contagious, and extreme care should be taken to prevent it.
    In terms of appropriate space, Gabe recommends that a minimum of 25 square feet be provided per pheasant. Quail should have a minimum of two square feet, and chukar need a minimum of four square feet. Gabe does not breed and raise pigeons and therefore could not offer guidelines for them. I use the guidelines for chukar in my pigeon houses, giving each bird at least four square feet of room. When building a bird pen, johnny house or recall house, more space is better. The cost of building bigger is not that much more, and the economics of building bigger versus losing birds only makes sense.
    In addition to providing ample space, maintaining sanitary housing is an integral part of proper gamebird management. The flooring should be wire, allowing droppings to fall through. Chukar and quail are susceptible to internal parasites, and both will do better on wire floors. When birds are housed on wire floors, it is not necessary to clean the floors as is required with solid materials such as wood or linoleum. Waterers and feeders should be suspended above the floor to prevent their fouling with excrement. Using nipple waterers will help prevent the spread of diseases as well.
    Introducing new birds into an existing population is risky. Gabe makes a good point when he suggests that trainers buy smaller numbers of birds and purchase birds more often. Not only will this reduce the square-footage requirements in the bird pens and houses, but it also will protect against new additions infecting existing populations if the pens are empty when replenished. Ideally, the housing should remain empty for a few days before new birds are introduced. All waterers and feeders should be disinfected prior to reintroducing birds. If the birds are to be housed in an enclosed area without a wire floor, the floor also should be disinfected. People can transport bacteria into the housing environment, so I suggest leaving a pair of rubber boots by the bird pen. Before entering the pen, hose the boots to help prevent introducing bacteria into the living quarters.
    I recommend treating drinking water with Terramycin (or another brand of the broad-spectrum antibiotic tetracycline) for a week or 10 days when first introducing birds to their new environment. This is a preventative measure to reduce the chance of the birds, particularly quail, from developing ulcerative enteritis. Terramycin is readily available from any farm-supply store. If the birds do develop ulcerative enteritis, a poultry antibiotic called LS 50 is the best course of action. Although not as readily available as Terramycin, LS 50 is produced by a variety of makers and can be ordered from farm-supply catalogs and on the Internet. If you are going to keep quail, it’s a good idea to have LS 50 on hand.
    As Gabe puts it: “Birds are not like dogs and cannot be fed like dogs.” It is extremely important to have feed available for the birds at all times. If feed is not available, the birds will cannibalize each other.
    Chicks are protein eaters, not grain eaters. Young birds in the wild eat only insects, because insects are a source of high protein. Once the birds mature, grains, seeds and vegetation become their nutrient mainstays. A high-protein diet is required for growing young birds, and Gabe recommends turkey starter feed for the first seven weeks. Feed a 31-percent-protein turkey starter, and then switch to turkey grower feed as the birds mature to adults. I feed turkey starter and turkey grower to quail, chukar and pheasants; pigeons are fed whole corn.
    Coccidiosis is a parasitic disease of the intestinal tract caused by protozoa, and it is probably the greatest single disease that infects captive birds. Coccidiosis spreads through contact with infected feces, and it is associated with an unsanitary environment. When housing birds, it is nearly impossible to keep the environment totally sanitary, but every little bit helps. Again, keeping feeders and waterers off of the floor, using nipples for waterers, and housing birds on wire floors are all preventative measures that aid in keeping diseases such as coccidiosis at bay. Gabe further advises that birds housed in a more open environment—without a roof—do not need medication on a routine basis in their water or feed. Netting over a bird pen does not constitute a roof. Space is more valuable than medication.
    As stated earlier, birds generate a lot of heat and do not dissipate it well, especially when clumped together. Ventilation is needed, both in the living quarters and in crates when the birds are being transported. Keep this in mind when bringing birds home or transporting them to training grounds, as far too many inexperienced trainers have made the mistake of placing tarps over the bird crates, preventing ventilation and resulting in disaster. Gabe tells his drivers not to stop—even for a cup a coffee—when delivering birds to a client. The movement of air is the best ventilation during transportation. Obviously, don’t overcrowd birds in a crate, and do whatever you can to keep the birds cool. Transporting birds at night is preferable to during the day, as not only are nights cooler, but also a sleeping bird generates less heat and is not subject to higher stress levels.
One last piece of advice: Take care to keep yourself healthy when dealing with birds. Birds carry diseases, some of which can make you very sick. Keeping the birds’ quarters as sanitary as possible is good for you, too. I wear a respiratory mask when entering enclosed quarters such as a pigeon house. Keep an anti-bacterial scrub by the bird pen, and wash your hands after handling birds. Preventative maintenance is the right call for you as well as the birds.

For more training articles or information on the George Hickox School of Dog Training, visit www.georgehickox.com.