First Gun

“Dad, I want to take hunter education,” announced my 11-year-old daughter one day after school. To say I was surprised would be the understatement of the year. Although she had been surrounded by hunting and guns her entire life, Signe (pronounced “Sig-nee”) had never expressed the slightest interest in shooting. Most of her spare time was spent with music and dance lessons. Chalk up the change in heart to the fact that in rural Idaho, where we live, the family hunt is a tradition woven tightly into the fabric of life. Signe’s friends at school apparently had talked up their experiences enough that she’d decided that there must be something to this “hunting.”

Not wanting to dampen the fire, I wasted no time signing Signe up for the first available Hunter Education class. The ride time to and from class provided a great opportunity to talk about shooting and what would make a good first gun. We eventually decided on a double (Signe being a chip off the ol’ block), and I quickly began the pleasant task of finding something suitable.

In my many years at state-sponsored youth hunting clinics and from working with other kids, I’ve found that exposing young people to shotgunning is a lot like introducing them to fishing: It has to be successful and fun from the start. To ensure this, the most important element may be selecting the proper gun. Many of us have heard horror stories about newcomers to shooting receiving terribly mismatched guns that result in them being slammed by recoil or so contorted around an ill-fitting stock that they stand basically no chance of hitting anything. It’s testimony to the power of the hunting instinct that some people stick with it at all.

In our family, hunting wild birds with a side-by-side is the modus operandi, but in my daughter’s case there were considerations more important than her gun’s effectiveness on clays or game. First, she needed a gun that she could shoot without fear of recoil. Her 4'9", 75-pound frame and less-than-aggressive nature made this top priority. (Nothing—and I repeat, nothing—can put off a first-time shooter like getting battered by recoil.) Second, she needed a gun that fit her and her body type. Because of the hand-eye-coordination inherent in successful shooting, gunfit is extremely important. More than that, Signe’s arm length, musculature and body type dictated that she have a small gun—obviously a sub-gauge. And with the small gauges, stock fit is especially important, because their small payloads leave less margin for pointing error. Third, we needed a gun we could afford. The budget was limited for a gun Signe probably would outgrow quickly.

So we set about looking. To keep things safe, simple and reliable, I wanted a break-action, non-ejector with double triggers. I also was hoping to find a gun with an additional replacement buttstock to customize. A quick search online revealed a strong candidate: the CZ USA Bobwhite .410 made by Huglu. It had all of the features we wanted and was less than $1,000. The company’s service facility in Kansas City also could supply a second buttstock, although it would need custom inletting. A short time later the check was in the mail for both the gun and the replacement stock.

When the gun arrived, it was perfectly suitable except for the triggers. A gauge measured the pulls at 9-1/2 and 10 pounds, and Signe literally couldn’t pull them. Rather than take the time to return the gun, we convinced a gunmaker friend to help us. With some polishing and adjustment, George was able to get the pulls down to a more user-friendly 3-1/2 and four pounds.

After confirming that Signe’s dominant eye complemented her dominant hand (both proved to be right), we were ready for stock fitting. (Eye dominance typically is checked prior to ordering a gun so that right- or left-handed stocks can be selected if available.) As mentioned, the plan was to modify a replacement stock to proper dimensions, so it didn’t matter what stock had come on the gun. With no professional gunfitter nearby, it was up to me to make the critical measurements and do the fitting. I sought the council of Purdey-trained gunmaker Dale Tate, who has fitted thousands of people and whose son, Daniel, is a California and national junior shooting champion. “The most important measurement is length of pull related to where the head comes on the stock,” Tate said. “You don’t get length of pull from arm length. There’s so much variation with face size and neck length, you have to measure it off the stock, looking at the relationship of the person’s head to the trigger hand on the grip. I like to see two fingers of space between the thumb on the grip and the shooter’s nose. Cast is important, as is drop, but not nearly so much as correct length of pull.”

We obtained preliminary measurements with a cardboard “try gun”—a piece of stiff cardboard cut out full-size to duplicate the dimensions of the existing shotgun barrels, comb and LOP. (At the trigger location, I made a hole in the cardboard for Signe’s forefinger.) Then after determining the approximate dimensions we wanted, I used a bandsaw to cut off the butt of the replacement stock. When the stock still proved too long, I made another cut. Once the LOP was right, I began adjusting the comb—either shaving it down or building it up with moleskin—until, looking down the muzzle, I could see Signe’s pupil just over the rib. Now the gun was ready.

Once the stock was fitted, it was time to school Signe on the basics of proper gun mounting. My usual technique is to begin training indoors, all the while stressing muzzle safety. What I do is make an orange-sized target on a wall and have the shooter, standing 15 feet from the wall, hold the gun with the muzzles raised toward the target and the butt just under the armpit. The mount should be smooth and quick, basically pushing the muzzles out toward the target, and then pulling the buttstock back into the shoulder pocket. Done properly, it should be more of an “in and out” movement than an “up and down.” (This motion is also good for preventing the gun from hanging up on clothing.)

Signe quickly developed a competent gun mount so, armed with the Bobwhite, Remington .410 factory loads, proper hearing and eye protection, and a Lincoln portable trap and clays, we headed to a nearby field for some introductory shooting. I always like to start with flying targets to lessen the shooter’s focus on recoil and achieve the instant gratification of breaking clays. The only stationary target I use is a milk jug filled with water, which I obliterate during the preliminary safety talk to illustrate the importance of muzzle control and the devastating power of a shotgun.

Other suitable introductory sites include clays ranges, where most operators gladly will schedule private time for beginners, as well as local gun clubs. Skeet ranges work well also, especially Station 7 presented as a going-away target or as an incomer, with the shooter standing beyond the high house where the target lands. (Remember to set the thrower spring for a nice, slow target.)

Noted shooting instructor and former SSM columnist Les Greevy likes to start his shooters this way: “After checking master eye and gun fit, we use a Remington 1100 for my first-timers,” he said. “It’s very easy for me to ‘control’ the gun from behind the shooter, and I only put in one shell at a time. The gun’s soft recoil is very important, as is its pointability. Our shotshells are never more than one-ounce target loads. I start with a soft incoming target, as most first-timers have problems with timing skills; they’re usually too slow. This target tends to be easier to hit the closer it gets until it drops at their feet.

“We work on an easy, smooth mount and encourage the shooter to ‘go with the flow.’ If kids are too little to handle the mass of a shotgun—usually 5 or younger —we encourage them to shoot BB guns at targets until they grow up a bit.”

Bryan Bilinski, owner and operator of the Fieldsport Family Shooting School, in Michigan, echoes many of the same concepts. “I start with hearing and eye protection and then a gun-safety talk, demonstrating the awesome power of a shotgun by shooting a squash or a pumpkin at close range. I normally use Beretta 390s or 391s plugged to accommodate only one cartridge. Gunfit is a major first step, as kids normally haven’t reached full skeletal growth, so adult guns have the combs too low.” Bilinski likes a 13/8" to 15/8" drop and prefers a parallel comb to reduce recoil. He adds that “moleskin” is the operative word at Fieldsport. “We tape it on the comb until we get the height we want. The soft finish is a bonus, because it also reduces the fear of hard surface recoil. Eye dominance is checked, and then we work on the shooter’s stance, encouraging proper foot placement and a gun mount that allows the shooter to be on the balls of the feet rather than the heels.

“My favorite target for first-timers is a gentle, quartering incomer. We try to light the fire and keep it fun, rarely shooting more than 20 or 25 minutes before quitting and heading for refreshments.”

For my daughter and me, the trick now was to pull it all together. I told her that as the clay went out, she should concentrate on the target, keeping both eyes open, as she mounted the gun. As the muzzles moved toward and “acquired” the target (barrels still moving), the safety should come off and the trigger should be pulled. I told her to use the muzzle like an eraser and “wipe out” the target.

Timing is the most common problem with new shooters. If they shoot too slow, give them gentle encouragement to speed things up. Be positive and tell them, “You almost got it!” If they continue to be too slow, have them pre-mount the gun until they break a few birds. Some youngsters shoot too quickly in their excitement. Have them slow the whole process and take the target at 20 yards. Once timing and proper gun mount come together, success is almost guaranteed.

I can assure you that there are few things as satisfying as seeing the smile on the face of a youngster who has just “miraculously” broken a flying target. After that, you may have to invest in a reloader.

Clair Kofoed is an Editor at Large for Shooting Sportsman.

First Firearms

There are many suitable youth guns available today. Following are some of the offerings I discovered. (Keep in mind that autoloaders will have less recoil than equivalent-weight guns of any other type.)

Benelli (www.benelliusa.com) sells the Montefeltro in a 5-pound 4-ounce 20-gauge with a 26-inch barrel in the 12-1/2" LOP Short Stock model. The company’s 5-pound 2-ounce Ultra Light with a 24-inch barrel might serve with reduced-pressure loads but may not cycle.

Beretta (www.berettausa.com) has almost too many choices, including two autoloaders: the 3901 American Citizen in a short 20-gauge with an add-on stock extension and the AL391 Urika 2 Youth 20-gauge with a 24-inch barrel and 13-1/2" LOP.

Browning (www.browning.com) has a nice range of options, starting with the Gold Superlite Micro autoloader, at 6 pounds 6 ounces. The durable Citori comes as the 525 Feather in a 26-inch-barreled 20-gauge or as the Lightning Feather Combo in a 27-inch-barreled 20/28 configuration—both at 6 pounds 3 ounces. The Citori Superlight Feather is offered in 12, 20 and 28 gauge at 6 pounds 4 ounces, 5 pounds 11 ounces, and 5 pounds 11 ounces. The BPS pump comes in a 6-pound 14-ounce Micro 20-gauge with a 13-1/4" LOP and in an Upland Special 20-gauge model that weighs 6 pounds 12 ounces but has a 14" LOP.

Franchi (www.franchiusa.com) has several offerings. The 720 Upland Short Stock is an autoloading 20-gauge with a 12-1/2" LOP, 24-inch barrel and weight of 5 pounds 13 ounces. The 48 AL autoloaders come in a Field Short Stock 20-gauge, with a 12-1/2" LOP, 24-inch barrel and weight of 5 pounds 6 ounces, and a Field 28-gauge, with a 14-1/4" LOP, 26-inch barrel and weight of 5 pounds 6 ounces.

Caesar Guerini (www.gueriniusa.com) has two over/unders for consideration. The Tempio Light, at 5 pounds 6 ounces in 20 gauge and 5 pounds 4 ounces in 28, would be OK with very soft loads. The Woodlander, at 6 pounds 3 ounces in 20 gauge and 6 pounds 2 ounces in 28, is a bit heavier.

H&R 1871 (www.hr1871.com) offers the Pardner Pump Compact, with a 13-inch LOP and weight of 6-1/2 pounds. I would be cautious about using the single-shot, exposed-hammer Pardner Compact, however. At 5 to 5-1/2 pounds depending on gauge (20, 28 or .410), it might have objectionable recoil with all but the softest loads—and exposed hammers sometimes can be released accidentally by young hands.

Marlin (www.marlinfirearms.com) imports a line of L.C. Smith O/Us and side-by-sides. At about 6-1/2 pounds in 28 gauge and .410 (6 pounds in 20 gauge), these guns could be an option, and shortening the 14-1/4" LOP would not be a budget breaker.

Mossberg (www.mossberg.com) configures its 500 pump in a Bantam model, which comes in at 6-1/2 pounds in 20 gauge and 6 pounds in .410 and has a 13" LOP. The 500 Super Bantam in 20 gauge and the 505 Youth in 20 and .410 all weigh 5-1/4 pounds and have 12-inch LOPs—and would require careful load selection.

Remington (www.remington.com)—the only company I found with a dedicated “Youth” category on its “Firearms” Web page—has the always-reliable 870 pump and 11-87 auto in youth sizes. The company also carries inexpensive imported doubles like the SPR 220 side-by-side, available in 20 gauge with double triggers, a recoil pad and a weight of 6 pounds 4 ounces.

Ruger (www.ruger.com) makes 26-inch-barreled Red Label 20- and 28-bore over/unders that weigh 6 pounds. Both may require stock-length reduction.

Stoeger (www.stoegerindustries.com) has an Uplander Youth side-by-side 20-gauge with 22-inch barrels and a 13-inch LOP that is a fairly light 6 pounds 13 ounces. There is also a .410 version weighing 61/2 pounds. The company’s Condor Youth O/U in 20 gauge or .410 has 22-inch barrels, a 13-inch LOP and a weight of only 51/2 pounds.

Weatherby (www.weatherby.com) offers its 20-gauge SA-08 Youth autoloader with 26-inch barrels, a 12-1/2" LOP and a weight of 5-3/4 pounds.

Winchester (www.winchesterguns.com) sells only 12-gauge shotguns now, but its 101 Light O/U, at 6 pounds, would work nicely for some youngsters, and the 6-pound 12-ounce Super X3 autoloader would be a soft-recoiling gun for bigger kids.

Of course many makers of doubles have custom options suitable for young shooters. Lion Country Supply can order Ugartecheas with short dimensions, and Connecticut Shotgun Manufacturing Co. offers some dimensional options on its RBL. The Smith & Wesson Gold Elite double is inexpensive enough to alter for a youngster too. It basically comes down to how much money and effort you’re willing to spend on a gun that likely will be outgrown in a short time. 

Chokes & Loads

When my daughter and I chose a .410, we worried about its choke. Most .410 field guns need a fair amount of constriction to ensure adequate pattern density. As a result, they tend to be experts’ guns. But for the beginner at short-range clays, it’s best to use the most open choke possible. Improved Cylinder is generally the best one can do, but Cylinder is great if available. Remember: Targets need to be broken to hook the shooter.

Using modern ammunition, Cylinder choke offers very good odds that a new shooter will be able to break clays at 20 yards. If a particular gun is choked too tight, there are options. One is “spreader” loads and reloading components. For years I’ve had excellent luck hunting with Polywad Spred-R cartridges and over-shot inserts in 12, 16, 20 and 28 gauge. They generally open the choke one full increment but should be patterned with individual guns to confirm. Another option is to have chokes opened up by a competent gunsmith. And of course choke tubes can be installed, if desired.

Ammunition choices for beginners always should be made with low recoil in mind. Many companies have picked up on this and are offering lighter loads. Remington (www.remington.com), for example, has added 7/8-ounce 12- and 20-gauge Managed-Recoil loads to its excellent STS line. (The company advertises a 40-percent reduction in recoil with the 12-gauge loads).

Winchester (www.winchester.com) has brought out Winlite low-recoil, low-noise loads in 7/8-oz 20s and 26-gram (between 7/8- and one-ounce) 12s.

Fiocchi (www.fiocchiusa.com) has “low recoil trainer” 7/8-oz loads in 12 gauge as well as a 3/4-oz 20-gauge shell that Bryan Bilinski favors in his shooting schools.

Italian maker B&P (www.bandpusa.com) has a fine line of light ammunition, including an F2 Sub Sound 12-gauge, with low noise and recoil. The company’s F2 Legend 20-gauge can be ordered in a mild-recoiling 7/8-oz load as well.

Besides it’s fine spreader loads, Polywad (www.polywad-shotgun-shells.com) offers low-recoil Vintager 21/2" shells in 12, 16 and 20 gauge. The 12s and 16s are 7/8-oz, and the 20s are 3/4-oz.

Finally, RST Classic Shot Shell Co. (www.rstshells.com) has its Best Grade line of quality Lite ammunition in 21/2", 7/8-oz loads for 12, 16 and 20 gauge. RST even has a Lite 21/2" 5/8-oz load in 28 gauge. —C.K.