Through Multi-Colored Glasses

If there is one thing every shooter should buy before purchasing a gun, it is a pair of shooting glasses. Ear protection is nice, but glasses should be required equipment. After my PEP talk you’ll understand why.
My PEP talk—for Protection, Enhancement and Prescription—really starts and ends with protection, and I’ll tell you why. A number of years ago I was guiding a party of four hunters, one of whom was a first-timer in his mid-20s. We started the day on the range, and it didn’t take long for the newcomer to figure out how to hit a few clays. After lunch we headed to the field. An hour or so later we were working a patch of cattails in a wash when a hen pheasant flushed, turned and flew right at us about six feet high. Several four-letter words entered my mind, and none of them was “good.” As the bird peeled back, I saw the hunter to the right start swinging on it. His muzzle would cover the entire line and, from his position, he was shooting down on the bird—and us. I felt an immense wave of relief when I heard the shot and didn’t feel any searing pain, but then I heard a voice from the left and a little behind saying, “I’ve been shot.” The new hunter had caught a 20-gauge load of No. 6s right in the face at about 30 yards. One pellet had pierced his right eye.
As it turned out, a six-week battle to save the eye was lost. A wonderful first day in the field will be forever rued. The sad moral to the story is that if the new hunter had been wearing shooting glasses, the tragedy would have been much less severe.
Prior to that day, I always had encouraged my hunters to wear glasses. After that I was pretty insistent. I carried extras so there could be no excuses. If you hunt and don’t wear eye protection, you are an accident waiting to happen.

Protection is easy to come by. Box stores sell shooting glasses. Gun shops sell them. You can order them on the Internet. Wraps offer the advantage of protection around the sides of the eyes but, depending on fit, may steam up at inopportune times. They typically are the least-expensive models, but there are some that have price tags that will make you sit up and take notice. Shooting glasses with interchangeable lenses may cost a bit more up front, but over time lenses can be added for reasonable prices to accommodate changing needs.
The plot thickens when “Enhancement”—as in target enhancement—is thrown into the mix. There are a bazillion tints on the market. Some sound awfully exotic; others simply tell it like it is. I suppose it helps if one remembers that shooting glasses are a spin-off of the lucrative sunglasses market. Lens tints that sound like some kind of mixed drink probably appeal to larger parts of the market, but they can be confusing when trying to figure out just what “gold iridium” or “orange ice” will do for your vision.
If you are a hunter, target enhancement isn’t a big deal. The flapping wings of birds help draw the eye even on flat, gray days. You can, however, make the world you hunt in a much more beautiful place. A little increase in contrast and a touch of color correction can make most anyplace a calendar shot—and keep your un-perforated eyes tucked safely in your head.
If you are a target shooter, you can spend the kids’ inheritance trying different tints looking for perfection. Bright days aren’t a problem, and even partially color-blind guys like me can see orange targets then. It’s the flat, gray days that are the score killers. There are no flapping wings to draw the eye, just that round little orb slipping quickly and unobtrusively through the air.
Many non-prescription glasses come with a set of two or three color lenses. A three-lens package typically includes something for low, medium and bright light. Clear or a pale yellow meets the low-light criteria. Amber, yellow or orange might fill the medium niche. Gray lenses commonly fill the bright-light slot, although they don’t offer enhancement, instead cutting light evenly across the color spectrum. Remember that no lens adds light. It subtracts, or mutes, part of the color spectrum. The effort to make an orange target stand out is often an effort to mute the background colors. When choosing tints, a rough rule of thumb is to look at a color wheel and choose the color opposite the one you would like to highlight.
One can start from here and stack colored lenses three feet high trying to find a miracle—or something just a bit better. Perhaps it’s fair to compare tints to choke tubes. No one needs nine choke constrictions, but many delight in having them. The sensible approach is to try other shooters’ glasses while working your way toward dim-light Nirvana.
There are new tint processes on the market that are said to accomplish tasks that standard tints do not. In the target-shooting venue, these tasks are primarily in highlighting the color orange. Randolph Engineering offers its CMT lenses (ColorMag Technology), with a pigment added to its polycarbonate that can make orange jump out of the background.
In the world of standard tints, a lot of shooters like something in purple for bright light. It dims a green background and highlights an orange target. Vermillion is a good choice for many, as it boosts the orange light coming to the eye and makes it stand out from the background. The common theme between the two colors is that they contain red, so what one tint does the other does also, just to a different degree. If you live in the desert, with those bright blue skies, bronze might work well for you. Bronze will block some of the blue light and increase contrast. Of course, there is usually light to spare in the desert, so reducing the amount of light getting to the eye can make seeing more comfortable as well. The total light available is part of the equation and explains why a lens that works well in July’s high sun may not fare so well in January. Low-angle light —and much less of it in Northern climes —can really reduce the enhancing properties of a tint. For the hunter, it can be as simple as finding that the bronze that worked well in the fall makes it almost impossible to see downed birds in January. The reduced natural light means that the shadows under fall vegetation have turned to dark holes in January.
Remember that all tints (and lens materials) restrict the amount of light passing through to varying degrees. In dim light—in spite of the claims of marketing folks—no lens will let in more light than a clear one.
In all honesty, the best friend you can have when trying to figure out tints is an optometrist who shoots and has a set of tint pots. (Tints are heated before a lens is immersed in them, so a proper setup is required.) Access to tints means that lenses can be colored, bleached (if the color gets too dark) and colored again as you try to find the perfect tint. Sometimes bleaching won’t remove all of the tint, but more of something else can be added for a blend as exotic as any catalog listing.
The simple truth is that there is massive overkill in the number of tints available. You can research them to death, spending hours on the Internet or reading reams of copy, but an afternoon on the range trying friends’ glasses will be far more enjoyable and likely yield more useful information to get you started.
You may see the term “plano” lenses. That means that they are plain, old lenses, with no prescription. They may be tinted in any color under the sun.
Polarized lenses cut the glare from reflected light. Fishermen love them, as they permit one to see “into” the water. Polarized shooting lenses, as one would expect, are wonderful on bright days, but even they can be too much of a good thing in the dark shadows that lurk on many ranges. A hunter with polarized lenses is likely to be in good shape so long as there is enough ambient light to be able to see to walk.
The third part of my PEP talk is Prescription. There are a lot of facets to consider. The first is the Abbe number (named for German physicist Ernst Abbe, who defined it). Basically, the Abbe number measures the amount of light dispersion in the lens. To the man on the street, the number relates pretty much to how we see. A higher Abbe number means the lens likely will be perceived as offering better vision. The standard for this comparison is an Abbe number of 58. That’s as good as it gets, at least for now. Differences in Abbe numbers aren’t readily apparent in small increments. You won’t notice a change of, say, 3 to 5 on the scale. You might notice a difference of 10 and likely will notice a difference of 15. Just go with the general idea that the higher the Abbe number, the better the resolution of the lens. After learning about Abbe numbers and how they differ with lens materials, I now understand why I see better with my shooting glasses than my regular ones.

Lens Materials
Glass lenses, with an Abbe number of 58, are optically precise but lack impact resistance. They are bright and effective but heavy. Understandably, they are hard to find—at least in shooting-glasses form—as well.
CR39 (designating Pittsburg Plate Glass’s [PPG’s] 39th try with Columbia Resins) was the first lens material offered as an alternative to glass. Commonly referred to as “plastic,” CR39 offers excellent optical performance and improved impact resistance over glass, and it is eminently “tintable.” CR39 lenses start life as injection-molded discs. They are ground to shape for glasses. Lenses for wraps are molded as well. CR39 has an Abbe rating of 58, so optically it performs as well as glass, and lenses are available in a wide range of prescription needs. The not-so-good news is that CR39 lenses are heavy in some prescriptions. Also, CR39’s impact resistance has been surpassed by that of newer materials.
Polycarbonate lenses came next. They offer excellent impact resistance and are lighter than CR39 lenses—which could be significant with more severe prescriptions. Lens weight bothers some more than others. Polycarbonate has an Abbe rating of 30 to 32 and is not easily tinted. Some lenses also have problems with chromatic aberration, or color fringing. Understandably, some people don’t see as clearly through polycarbonate, with vision quality degrading as the pupil moves away from the optical center. Lexan, or bulletproof glass, is polycarbonate, as are CDs and DVDs.
Trivex is the newest material on the block. It has almost the shatter resistance of polycarbonate, can be easily tinted and has an Abbe rating of 43 to 45, depending on the manufacturer. It is lighter than polycarbonate. PPG, which brought us CR39, was the developing force behind Trivex, and the initial customer was the military. I would expect it to make inroads into the current market.
Considering the “prime” features we are looking for in shooting glasses, the rankings by material are as follows:
Impact resistance: 1) Polycarbonate, 2) Trivex, 3) CR39.
Abbe rating: 1) CR39 (58), 2) Trivex (43 to 45), 3) Polycarbonate (30 to 32).
“Tintability”: 1) CR39, 2) Trivex, 3) Polycarbonate (CR39 and Trivex are very close, with polycarbonate a distant third. Tints have to be molded into polycarbonate.)
You may see “high index” lenses listed. These benefit only shooters who are more than mildly nearsighted. Lenses for nearsighted individuals are thicker on the edges than in the middle, with farsighted lenses having thicker middles and thinner edges. Lenses work by bending light. High-index lenses are ground to do a lot of bending—a high index of refraction—with a manageable lens thickness. If you need them, your optometrist can fill you in on the details.
Another choice when considering shooting glasses is the coatings that are available. Some are pretty self-explanatory, like “scratch resistant.” Polycarbonate lenses scratch easily, so scratch-resistant coatings can be beneficial. Anti-reflective coatings are an added expense, but I have to say that when I put on coated lenses for the first time, I thought, Wow, this is like looking through a good camera lens. Contrast was improved, and the difference in clarity was striking. The older you get, the more you should consider adding a boost to the base material. If you are developing cataracts, you really should get the anti-reflective coating—on both the front and back of the lens. You’ll have to request this, as typically the coating is done only on the back of the lens.
Although many lenses tout their UV-blocking ability, this is an inherent quality of the material used, not any magic dust that has been added. Ultraviolet light has a shorter wavelength than visible light and is invisible to the eye. It is electromagnetic radiation and a natural part of sunlight; it is the “light” that burns the skin. Prolonged exposure also can damage the eye in several ways, the most common being causing cataracts. The other conditions have a common theme of membrane growth impairing the function of the eye. The only way to truly beat UV is with a wrap lens. Even though a “standard” lens may block UV light, UV rays still will get to the eye around the edges of the lens.
Different vision requirements can determine the best lenses for an individual as well. That is why it is so handy to have an optometrist assess your needs and chart a path for you to follow. If you can find an optometrist who shoots, even better, as he will be familiar with specific issues you have to deal with.
You may even find that your best bet is a pair of contact lenses with a nonprescription pair of wraps for protection. That sure can make the process cheaper in the long run. Keep in mind that each layer of lens material will block some of the light that normally would pass through to the eye. Dim light will be just a bit dimmer. Several wrap systems also have a prescription-lens holder designed to wear under the wrap. Prescription lenses are fitted to the inserts and worn under the tinted lenses.
Non-prescription lenses are typically much less expensive than prescription lenses. One can add a fair number of standard lenses in different tints for the cost of one set of prescription lenses. Standard interchangeable prescription lenses are pretty much worthless once a new prescription is needed, and the expense to replace three or four tints can be depressing. If you opt for the insert scenario, make sure the one you choose has a big enough field of view.

Frames
There are wire frames, plastic frames, titanium frames, nylon frames and probably many more. When selecting a frame, you have two concerns. The first is simply that the frame be able to support the lens properly during heavy impact. You don’t want a lens popping out of a frame and getting driven into your face.
The second is simply comfort. If the frame meets the above criteria and is comfortable, that’s all that matters.
Lenses, hence frames, come in different sizes. Make sure you get a size that fits your head. Pick a temple style that you can stand to wear all day. That way you’ll have the glasses on if you need them. Wrap-around cable temples are very secure, but if the fit isn’t good, aching ears can be a distraction after an hour or two. “Paddle” earpieces may not be quite as secure, but the added comfort they offer some users may make them a reasonable compromise. The most effective way to be sure is to try them on and compare.

The Marketplace
The aforementioned Randolph Engineering (www.randolphusa.com) has been providing eyewear for many years. Randolph’s early years were spent developing and supplying glasses to pilots. The company offers a wide selection of lens tints and several different frame styles as well as fixed- and replaceable-lens glasses. Tints are molded into polycarbonate lenses, providing consistent color throughout that will never fade or wear.
HiDefSpex (www.hidefspex.com) offers distortion-free Diamond Vision Lenses made of Ballistx, a proprietary bulletproof polymer, that are guaranteed unbreakable for life. The company’s Color Trast technology provides high-definition vision by infusing lenses with optimal amounts of contrast while amplifying color. To its Light Management System, which already included five lenses for various light conditions, HiDef recently introduced its 80% LTM lens “for maximum light transmission with superior orange target enhancement in extremely low-light situations.” It is said to be ideally suited for early morning flat gray light or dark overcast conditions. The 65% LTM lens, also designed for low-light conditions, is said to be ideal for live-bird shooting, as it accentuates the colors of gamebird feathers. On the Website there is a lot of information presented in video format, including a bit from world champion FITASC and sporting clays shooter George Digweed.
Bud Decot, of Decot Hy-Wyd Sport Glasses (www.sportglasses.com), was one of the early pioneers in shooting optics. His Hy-Wyd design has been around for many years. Standard lenses are CR39, with polycarbonate prescription lenses available. The company offers 45 tints for not only its own frames but also many other brands.
Oakley (www.oakley.com) glasses have their share of aficionados. The wrap-lens “M” frame, the company’s industrial model, is the most popular among shooters, and there are several other styles suitable for shooting. Lenses are made from plutonite, a polycarbonate. (Some shooters swear by the persimmon lens.)
Wiley X (www.wileyx.com) offers polycarbonate wraps similar in styling to Oakleys but without an extensive tint selection. Wiley offers military eye protection as well.
Howard Leight (www.howardleightshootingsports.com), of hearing protection fame, offers its Sharp-Shooter line of protective eyewear. Several styles of polycarbonate wraps are available in a variety of lens colors at very reasonable prices.
VedaloHD (www.vedalohd.com), produced in Italy and relatively new to the US, offers high-definition color enhancement through a process that is not a tint or coating but is molded into its polycarbonate lenses. The process, called HDL-3C (for the eye’s three color receptors), is said to “shorten the eye’s receptors’ response time, producing increased color sensitivity and improved chromatic contrast,” and it can be incorporated into any of the mentioned lens materials. In addition, the lenses are “non-polarized,” as the company claims that polarization distorts vision when looking up or down or following a moving object.
Post 4 Optics (www.post4optics.com) is operated by Mike Rinard, a trapshooter who owns an optics lab and grinds his own lenses. The company specializes in titanium frames (which happen to be sitting on my face as I write this) with interchangeable CR39 lenses in a wide variety of tints.
A few businesses with well-earned reputations in the shooting community bear mentioning. These folks understand what shooters are trying to accomplish, and that’s the icing on the optical cake.
Morgan Optical (www.morganoptical.net) is a dealer for Randolph glasses and is operated by Harold Morgan, an experienced shooter. The company has left a trail of satisfied shooters.
Lehman Optical (800-255-0205), in Dewey, Arizona, is another business that has served shooters long and well. The company carries frames from Decot, Post 4 and many others.
Dr. Jack Wills (800-544-9191), O.D., is another Randolph dealer with longstanding shooting roots.

Eyes are incredible organs, their task mind-boggling. Oddly, people often make the assumption that everyone sees the same way. It just isn’t so. Everyone sees color differently. Everyone sees motion differently. Eyes respond at different speeds. Even the location of the eyes on people’s heads can be considerably different.
But however your eyes function, just be happy you have them—and protect them. Invest in a pair of shooting glasses and wear them whenever you step onto the range or into the field. It could mean the difference between spying that pheasant and never seeing again.

Dave Holmes has written numerous articles on various shotgunning subjects. Legally blind in one eye and partially color blind in the other, his interest in enhancing optical performance is keen. His next lenses? Clear aspheric Trivex with anti-reflective coatings front and back.