Shooter's Cuisine

Michael Gray

Don't leave the legs in the field." This was at least the third time Michael Gray-no relation, but executive chef at the Hanover Inn, in New Hampshire-had offered this same advice in the space of an hour. Had it come from someone other than a chef who is both well-versed in game cooking and a hunter, it could have been a remark open to misinterpretation and construed into something quite bizarre. Whose legs aren't being left in the field? Bird legs. Gray knows that many hunters consider the legs of woodcock, grouse, pheasants-all the tough-legged birds-inedible, extraneous parts that should be left alongside the entrails during field-dressing.

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,November-December