Touring the London Trade

Beginning as a small Roman stockade built on the banks of the Thames in 43 A.D., London is today a multicultural city of more than 7 million inhabitants. Viewed from the air, the metropolis is a unique network of waterways and rambling streetscapes set against a rich, green tapestry of Royal Parks and more than 600 verdant squares.
On the ground, these thousands of acres are part of the city's matrix, dividing and connecting the financial district of London with the shops, restaurants and theaters of the West End. Today's London presents a diverse and ever-changing urban environment that is unequalled in the world.
It's little wonder that 18th Century English literary figure Dr. Samuel Johnson wrote: "When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford." Of course part of what every life should afford is a bevy of fine guns, and there is no better place to... Read More »



admire some of the world's best than in the shops of London. Visiting and touring these shops is a pilgrimage that should be on the top of every shooter's to-do list.

Around the end of the 19th Century, the London Directory showed more than 100 gunmakers in the city. The majority of the shops were in the West End in an area bordered to the south by the Strand, Pall Mall and Piccadilly; to the north by Oxford Street; to the west by Park Lane; and to the east by Southampton Row. This area rightfully could have been considered Gunmakers Quarter. Unfortunately, time has eroded the number of working gunmakers, and today in Central London there exist but a handful.
The names that remain are paramount in the trade, and for the sportsman, historian and connoisseur of fine guns, passing up the opportunity to explore these makers' shops would be sacrilege. Even better is that such a tour can be completed in a day-although one likely would want extra time to be thorough or to take any of several side trips to explore other sites of interest (see sidebar).
Following I have outlined what I feel is the quintessential tour of London's Gunmakers Quar-ter. It should give you not only a look at some of the finest gunshops in the world but also a feel for one of the most fascinating cities on Earth.

A Day to Remember
When organizing a gunshop tour, plan on visiting during a weekday, when various premises are guaranteed to be open and fully manned. Also keep in mind that if you are hoping to visit all of the establishments in one day, timing is of the essence. Adopting the army adage of 5Ps-Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance-you should plan to arrive at the first shop around 10 am, allow 45 minutes to look around each store, and give yourself 15 minutes to walk between sites. Taking into account lunch and other breaks for refreshment, you should complete your day a little past 5.
Also bear in mind that I have attempted to make the route between stores more interesting by suggesting pedestrian walkways as well as visits to retail emporia that will expose you to more of the flavor and variety of this great city.
So let's begin.
Assuming that you have risen early and fortified yourself with a full English breakfast of bangers (sausages), rashers of smoked bacon, black pudding, fried eggs, a slice of fried bread, and grilled tomatoes, plan to arrive at the South Entrance of the Green Park Underground Station, on Piccadilly, at 9:45. This station is served by the Victoria, Piccadilly and Jubilee lines and is one of the closest and most convenient to today's Gunmakers Quarter.
On the south side of Piccadilly, with Green Park Station at your back, turn east (right), and within 50 yards you will find Queens Walk, the eastern border of Green Park. This is one of the Royal Parks and at one time was swampland used as a burial ground for lepers.
Turn right into the Walk, and at its end turn left onto the Horse Ride. This path parallels the Mall and offers views of Buckingham Palace beyond the Queen Victoria Memorial on your right and Lancaster House and Clarence House on the left. Turn left onto Marlborough Road and, passing St. James's Palace on your left, cross Pall Mall into St. James's Street.
William Evans (www.williamevans.com) is located on the left at 67 St. James's Street in two shops adjacent to each other. The original shop contains the guns, clothing and shooting accessories; in the new addition is a wide range of shooting-related products-everything from silk scarves to cutlery and tableware to exquisite jewelry.
Ring the bell and you will be buzzed in to what I consider a real gunshop. Upstairs you can purchase anything you ever would need in the field, and through a doorway in the left rear corner, a set of well-worn stairs will take you down into one of the most atmospheric of the London gunrooms. Most days you will find a resident gunsmith or engraver at the bench surrounded by an amazing array of artifacts, guns and, of course, the company records. William Evans has undergone a real revival in recent years and recently took over the Kennedy Gunroom at Bisley Shooting Ground, in Surrey. Now that is a combination of great names in gunmaking history.
Leaving William Evans, use the "zebra crossing" directly outside of the front door and cross St. James's Street (remember to look right!). Here you will find the famous hatmaker Lock and Co. Hatters (www.lockhatters.co.uk), founded in 1676. Here you can purchase any hat from a city bowler to a folding panama, but I would suggest a tweed cap (my favorite cut is the Sandwich).
you do not require a new "titfer" for your wardrobe, turn left, pass the Economist Building and, two blocks up on the right, close to the corner of Jermyn Street, you will find the Beretta Gallery (www.berettagallery.com). The Gallery is now in its third year of trading at this location and well worth visiting. After all, Beretta is the oldest continuously operating gunmaker in the world.
The store's first floor showcases a large selection of safari and campaign furniture and Beretta's full line of traditional shooting attire. The second floor boasts a more contemporary line of clothing and accessories for both field and clay shooting.
The third floor holds the prize for me: one of the nicest selections of fine guns in London. The collection was assembled by the very knowledgeable John Ormiston, and it contains guns ranging from "entry level" Beretta Silver Pigeons to the company's superb flagship gun, the SO10. At the far end of the gunroom is an ever-changing display of excellent pre-owned British shotguns and rifles.
Exit stage right from the Beretta Gallery, and if you are in the market for a new pair of boots, Tricker's (www.trickers .com) is just a few yards away on Jermyn Street. Since the company opened, in 1829, Tricker's has offered handmade shoes and boots of superlative quality.
From Tricker's, proceed to the end of St. James's Street and cross Piccadilly. This major artery takes its name from a type of collar, "the piccadill," that used to be sold in the area. Here I would suggest you use the "pelican crossing." This is one of the busiest streets in the world and, although it appears to be a one-way, there is a dedicated contra-flow bus lane that can catch the unwary out. You do not want to contemplate being run over by a Number 9 London double-decker omnibus!
After safely negotiating this challenge and turning right, there are two route options. If you take the first left, you will be on Bond Street, which is, without a doubt, the premier shopping location in London. This street sports the most prestigious retail addresses in the city, gleaming with the likes of Cartier, Tiffany, Rolex, Asprey and every other designer name you can think of. If your good lady is accompanying you, you may want to choose an alternative route, or you might end up with insufficient funds to purchase even a box of cartridges at your next stop.
The alternative is to walk a few yards past Bond Street and turn left into the Burlington Arcade, which dates to 1816 and really should not be missed. This is one of Piccadilly's elegant arcades built in the Regency period. Bisecting the area of St. James's and Piccadilly, these historic malls are home to London's finest tailors, shirtmakers and bootmakers. When you exit the arcade into Burlington Gardens, you will see Bond Street a few yards to your left.
If you continue north along Bond Street, turn left at The Hermes Building onto Bruton Street, and on your right you will see Holland & Holland (www.hollandandhollandcom), just opposite the Coach & Horses Public House. Upon entering the store, you will be immersed in a world of clothing and accessories of timeless style, from cashmere scarves to full-grain-leather shooting vests.
Further into the store you enter the gunroom, passing through a range of shooting accessories before reaching the gun displays. Here large glass cabinets filled with a fine selection of new and pre-owned Holland & Holland guns line the walls.
In the middle of the east wall is a door leading to the basement and the Brevis Room, where the history of the company is on display. Due to limited staffing, the Brevis Room is open by appointment only, so do call ahead.
By now you should be getting hungry. Exit Holland & Holland by the front door, turn left and left again into Bruton Place. The Guinea Grill (www.theguinea.co .uk) will be on your right. One of the oldest alehouses in London, the Guinea Grill has been named the "National Steak and Kidney Pie Champion of Great Britain" three times and in 2000 was proclaimed to have the "Steak Pie of the Century." To pass up the opportunity to visit The Guinea Grill simply would be crass bad manners.
(Insider tip: For a 1 PM lunch, book a table well in advance. The Grill can get very hectic around this time, as people pour out of their offices in search of refreshment.)
Suitably fortified with a couple of pints of Young's Best Bitter and a steak pie, you may prepare to continue your ramble. A brisk walk will help work off the effects of such a hearty lunch.
Turn right out of The Guinea Grill and enter the north end of Berkeley Square, where, according to the song, "a nightingale sang." Keeping to your right, leave the northwest corner of Berkeley Square and enter Mount Street. After you pass The Con-naught Hotel (an excellent though pricey establishment), you will see William & Son (www.williamandson.com), at both No. 10 and 14 Mount Street.
At No. 10 you will find a fine selection of jewelry, silver, tableware and an exclusive watch collection-everything reflecting the elegance that is associated with William Asprey's family name.
At No. 14 you will discover a well-stocked store offering an impressive selection of clothing and accessories. In the basement is a very fine collection of sporting guns and rifles. It's obvious that being an expert in fine jewelry translates well into the manufacture of "best" guns. Built to the highest traditional specifications and embellished with the finest engraving, William & Son guns are truly impressive.
Turning right out of William & Son, you will find next door, at No. 16 Mount Street, Boss & Co. Gunmakers (www.bossguns.co.uk). (Yes, the two gunmakers are actually located next door to each other.) Dating to 1773, Boss & Co. is one of the longest-established gunmakers in the trade. Ring the doorbell and you will be admitted to a shop full of essential shooting kit.
At Boss & Co. you will find everything from snap caps to falconers' gloves. Take the steps up to discover a complete range of clothing and accessories interspersed with a great deal of the company's memorabilia and, of course, the company records.
At the rear of the store you descend into the gunroom. It is a small area, but what is on view is a fascinating history of gunmaking. On my most recent visit I spotted a set of three Boss round-action side-by-sides to die for!
Reluctantly leaving the Boss showroom, turn right again and walk to the junction of Mount Street and South Audley Street. Stand outside the Audley Arms Public House, look diagonally across the junction, and you will see the facade of the most famous gunmaker in the world: James Purdey & Sons (www.purdey .com).
Given that you have gained 15 minutes, thanks to the close proximity of Boss and William & Son, I recommend making use of the time by entering the Audley Arms for a quick pint. After all, this gun viewing is a thirsty business.
Return to the street adequately refreshed and make your way across to Audley House, home of Purdey's since the company move here from Oxford Street in 1882. The store recently underwent a major refurbishment, and it looks wonderful.
Upon entering the store you will see the library of company record books against the far wall. The sheer size and number of books will cause you to take stock and consider just how long the firm has been in business and how many guns and rifles it has made. In this same area you will find a unique selection of Purdey-themed jewelry-everything from cuff links, tiepins and limited-edition watches commissioned from Panerai to hip flasks and cigar humidors.
Deeper into the store is the gunroom. Here you will find a selection of new and pre-owned shotguns and rifles. The racks are never full, as most Purdeys are bespoke orders, but there are always fine examples to fawn over.
Further in still is a collection of luxurious, fashionable and functional attire. And on your left is the fabled Purdey Long Room (open by appointment only). Here a fascinating chronological history of the company is displayed-patents, guns, paintings, sketches and memorabilia that tell the story of this venerable English maker.
Leaving Purdey's, turn right down South Audley Street, and at The Gros-venor Chapel turn left and cross. You will pass the library and enter St. George's Gardens, a wonderful green oasis in the heart of London. Crossing the Gardens, leave by the south pathway and enter Chesterfield Hill. Then walk to the bottom of the Hill, turn left and take your first right onto Queen Street. At the end of Queen Street, cross over Curzon Street and enter Shepherd Market, built by Mr. Shepherd on the site of The Mayfair. This is a wonderful collection of Victorian and Edwardian shops and houses intertwined with a maze of cobbled alleyways and passages. Here you will find a large selection of excellent cafes and restaurants among the art and antique galleries.
By this time you will have worked up quite an appetite (for more than food I'm sure... ). Enter Ye Grapes Public House to discuss all that you have seen and to raise a pint to all of the absent brethren of London's gunmakers. It is thanks to them, after all, that you have enjoyed such a wonderful perambulation through the world's best-known gunmaking city.

Chris Batha divides his time between the UK and US working as a shooting instructor and gunfitter. He also guides shooting parties worldwide. Visit his Website at www.chrisbatha.com.

Shooting Schools
When passing through London, you may consider visiting one of the many shooting schools on the outskirts of the city. There are several within an hour's drive or a short train journey from downtown. And of course the Holland & Holland and West London Shooting Grounds are accessible by the Underground.
All are traditional British shooting grounds, and although they have kept pace with the increased popularity of recreational clay-target shooting, they still concentrate on game shooting. Instructors and gunfitters are full-time professionals who will improve your performance in the field. Each shooting ground also has its own gun, clothing and accessories shop, so if time is tight, a visit to one of these grounds can be a one-stop alternative to London's West End.
Bisley Shooting Ground (www.bisleyshooting.co.uk).
Broomhills Shooting Ground (www.broomhills.co.uk).
E.J. Churchill Shooting Ground (www.wwsg.org.uk).
Holland & Holland Shooting Ground (www.hollandandholland.com/shooting_ground/index.htm).
Royal Berkshire Shooting School (www.rbss.co.uk).
West London Shooting School (www.shootingschool.co.uk).
-C.B.

Traditional British Fare
For me, no visit to London would be complete without an epicurean repast at one of the remaining traditional British restaurants. London's oldest and most famous restaurant is Rules (www.rules.co.uk), in Covent Garden. Rules is the must-visit place for those who truly enjoy wild game in all of its infinite variety. The restaurant has its own estate, Lartington Hall in the High Pennines, and offers the very best selection of partridge, pheasant, mallard, snipe, teal and venison (served only after proper hanging). Dining is at your leisure in the grand Edwardian manor, basking in an atmosphere created by snow-white, crisply starched linens, silver and crystal amidst walls adorned with sporting paintings, prints and old cartoons.
Simpson's-in-the-Strand (www.fairmont.com/savoy) is one of London's most re-nowned restaurants. As the name suggests, it is located on The Strand, and it is part of the Savoy Buildings, which include the famous Savoy Hotel. There are several dining rooms, the best known on the ground floor, resplendently paneled in dark wood and lit by glittering chandeliers. There is no finer setting in which to dine on rich, roasted joints served on huge silver salvers and hand-carved at the table. If you have a particularly robust appetite, Simpson's serves an equally rich British dessert: bread-and-butter pudding.
In the heart of Covent Garden is Porters English Restaurant (www .porters.uk.com), specializing in those stalwarts of British cooking: pies and puddings. As it was established by The Earl of Bradford, you might think that it would be swanky; however, that is far from the case. Porter's is a welcoming and comfortable restaurant and, though a bit modern compared to its older peers, a genuine British eatery.
Then, of course, is The Guinea Grill (www.theguinea.co.uk), in Mayfair. This is one of the oldest alehouses in England and a must-visit on any gunmaking tour of London. -C.B.

Other Sites of Interest
If you are spending more than one day in London, then there are many more gunmakers and gunshops that are worth visiting. Some will require a short train journey or, if you prefer more flexibility, hiring a car.
Adjacent to Mayfair is Knightsbridge, and at 12 Cadogan Place you will find Ray Ward Gunsmith (www.raywardgunsmith.com). This double-fronted store a stone's throw from Sloane Street is superbly stocked for both the gentleman and lady hunter, offering a broad range of quality country clothing. The shop also stocks some of the most desirable and fine-handling shotguns and sporting rifles available.
Broomhills Shooting Ground (www .broomhills.co.uk) is set on 60 acres of beautiful Hertfordshire countryside only 30 miles north of London. It offers some of the finest sport-shooting facilities in the Home Counties, and it is also the home of Atkin Grant & Lang (www.atkingrantandlang.co.uk). The retail store offers a large selection of clothing and footwear, shooting accessories, gun-cleaning supplies and more. In the atmospheric gunroom is one the largest selection of pre-owned British shotguns on display anywhere as well as a large stock of walnut blanks, try-guns and gun-related books and components. This is also where you will find the records of gunmakers Henry Atkin, Stephen Grant and Joseph Lang in addition to one of today's most knowledgeable people in the gun trade: Ken Duglan.
Back in the city is the gunmaking company of Watson Bros. (www .watsonbrosgunmakers.com), at 54 Redchurch Street, in the Shoreditch district of East London. Today Watson's is noted for its svelte round-bodied sidelock smallbores as well as its innovative, lightweight over/ unders, which are built in-house. Owner Michael Louca encourages visitors by appointment. -C.B.